I signed up for the Christmas Run on December 9 but things are looking pretty bleak at the moment. Winter fell on us like a cold heavy blanket after what was a pretty mild autumn. I was shoveling snow out of the driveway last week and there is no way to run on the icy sidewalks. I've taken enough spills over the years and at 62 would like to keep my hip intact.
Nevertheless the festive season is upon us. The city decided to use a real tree this year, standing it up on a 5 meter tall platform with metallic gold apron. Looks like it will also serve as a stage for the official opening on December 1, looking down on a little village of white vendor stalls. Not sure what is more sustainable: to use a real tree or a metal frame with tree branches stuck into it as is usually the case?
Back in October, Vilnius beat out Guimaraes, Portugal, and Graz, Austria, for European Green Capital in 2025. It has always been a green city with its parks and forest lands retaining its wild side. Successive mayoral administrations have built a labyrinth of bike paths, totalling well over 100 km, and closed off streets to create greater pedestrian free flow. Of course there has been some grumbling as it gets more and more difficult to access the city center by car and parking costs have soared. However, the overall effect is a positive one.
Vilnius has certainly gotten a lot of good press the past year. It no longer feels like we are some hidden provincial capital which was the case under the Russian empire and Soviet Union. Lithuania, like much of Eastern Europe, was consigned to the "Pale" of Russia. Not only Jews, but all non-Russian persons were treated as second class citizens. Nevertheless, Lithuanians fought to maintain their ethnic identity that is deeply rooted in nature. By preserving forest lands throughout the country they were able to hold onto their heritage, which is why cutting down a tree, even a relatively modest fir tree, is considered sacrilege. Woe be it to anyone who cuts down an oak tree!
I love running through the parks and along the Neris River that winds its way through the center of the city. I have to watch out for tree roots stretching across the paths. Vingio Park is located in the bend of the river with its Soviet-era amphitheater. When Lithuania re-established its independence in 1990, it was known as the "singing revolution." The amphitheater hosts a song festival each summer. Choruses from all over the world gather to celebrate this massive songbook. They have an unique form of polyphonic singing known as "sutartinės" that has been included on the UNESCO World Heritage List. I tried to make sense of this style of singing, but had about as much luck as I have learning the language.
Further afield you find remnants of the ancient "piliakalnai," or fortified mounds that date back to early Medieval times. The structures were built out of wood so there isn't anything left of them. It was later in this period that Lithuanians began to build their forts from stone and brick, Only one of the bastions and part of a fortification wall remains from Gediminas' castle which rises up from the center of the city. There has been plenty of discussion on whether to reconstruct the castle but the hill has been subsiding ever since the city cut the trees down 20 years ago to better see the castle. They have tried a number of attempts to shore up the hillside but it's an ongoing battle.
The run itself is through the heart of the city, along slippery cobblestone streets. Just a few small inclines to traverse but otherwise pretty flat. Unlike other winter runs, the participants keep their clothes on. The favorite attire are Santa suits and/or caps. I have done this run in the past and collected my snowflake medal. I'm hoping we get a little break from the Arctic chill next week so that I can renew this great pastime.
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