Milan really is a special place. As I said we didn't know what to expect and were stunned at every turn, and we took many wrong turns much to my wife's chagrin. I hadn't realized how extensive the tram system is, so following the tracks doesn't necessarily lead you don't the right road. It is a virtual spider web with the Duomo at the center.
The plan of the historic center hasn't changed much since Medieval times, and you can find remnants of the historic wall throughout the city. We came across one section on our way to catch the tram to the Fondazione Prada. Not sure how far back the walls date back to, as there were at least three rings of defense, but they were impressive to see. It was like walking through portals to the past.
We came a little early, so had an espresso at The Bar, lit by a neon sign from the street. I was wondering why it had a distinctly Wes Anderson feel, and it turns out Wes designed it himself for Prada. The pinball machines have changed. I would have liked to try my hand at Zissou, but settled for Modern Physics.
Rem Koolhaas and OMA were the architects of the complex, a combination of old and new forms, artfully brought together. Reflective glass concealed the creative hub of the old factory with a new tower rising up at one corner that housed the permanent art collection and a restaurant on the sixth floor. The elevator itself is quite an experience, large enough to bring in installations like the old Chevy Bel Airs on the seventh floor. The lift ascended slowly so you could take in the views. The piece d'resistance is the gold-leaf "haunted house" that turned the ordinary into the extraordinary. Throughout, I was impressed by how subtle and ingenuous Rem was in his details. One of his best works in my opinion.
We saw an exhibit by Domenico Gnoli, who transformed everyday activities into beautiful moments with his extraordinary sense of color and texture. The first floor had a wonderful range of his art work, and the second floor focused on his work in the theater. Sadly, Gnoli died in 1970, just as his career was taking off. Prada has produced an epic work on the artist but it was too heavy to bring back with me. Will order it when it comes available in March. The gift shop was a bit pricey. If you have to ask, you can't afford it, as turned out to be the case with the t-shirts. No matter, we took plenty of pictures.
It was a short tram ride back to the city center, where we soaked in the Duomo one more time. Daina wanted to have lunch on one of the terraces that overlooked the plaza, so we took the elevator to the Terrazzo Duomo 21. Also a bit pricey, but worth it for the views. Service was great as well, so we really enjoyed our last meal in Milan. Unfortunately, the waiter didn't try to frame in the Duomo behind us, but he got the Christmas tree that was being trimmed in the piazza.
We did a bit of shopping as Daina wanted to get something from Milan to take back with us. Swarovski proved too tempting with its golden interiors. We wandered to the artists' quarter behind the galleria to find a lovely little toy store filled with collectibles, which we bought for the little ones in our family. We never really made it to the fashion quarter, which was too bad, as the range of clothes in the Duomo area wasn't very inspiring. We needed a rest before our big night at the opera - the whole purpose for our trip.
Daina had bought tickets for Placido Domingo on line. We were a little worried our printed sheets weren't enough for such a grand palace as La Scala. I found the biglietrreria around the corner and the clerk said they will be just fine. It was a friendly atmosphere while we waited for the doors to open. We weren't the only tourists, as many others were taking selfies under the portico.
It was one of those pinch me experiences, especially when we went inside. The lobby itself is not that impressive and is showing its age, but when you enter the grand theater, you are blown away by the six rows of opulent red and gold box seats and the horseshoe shaped ceiling above. As with all public spaces, you had to have your green pass and wear a mask. Dress ranged from casual to elegant. There seemed to be a few celebrities on hand, judging by the paparazzi, but we could only guess as their status. We met another Lithuanian couple, and took pictures of each other with the stage in the background.
The orchestra was very young. The opera season didn't begin until a few days later, so I guess the main orchestra was doing rehearsals. No let down though. They were an energetic and engaging group of musicians that were probably just as awestruck as we were to see Placido Domingo take the stage. He was joined by Roberta Mantegna for the duets, and she sang a few arias herself. At 80, it is quite a challenge for him to sing these operatic excerpts with no amplification, but he carried it off with all the aplomb of a grand master. He clearly got into the mood of the evening, as did the audience, which joined him in one of the encore pieces. He was genuinely moved by the long ovation.
A wonderful night to complete our four days in Milan! We didn't want to spoil it with any other music in the bars, so took the tram back to our little apartment on Via della Torchio and tried to get a few hours sleep before our early flight the next day. It was hard to do with the images and sounds of La Scala playing in our heads.
Definitely a city we want to come back to, and take in more of the region. We didn't get to the lakes or to Verona or to some of the other places we would like to see, but you can't take it all in at once. Envy our colleague living in Milan, although she says she doesn't get out of the house as much as she would like with her two small children. She said next time we visit she wants to go to the opera with us.
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