The early morning hours are really nice in Vilnius. Daina and I took a walk along the bend of the river in Žverynas this morning with our little Corgi. Our cat had followed us part way along the street before reaching the end of her territory, meowing as we ventured out of eyesight. Quite a few water puddles on the pockmarked street. Must have rained last night but didn't hear it. Perfect weather. About 15 degrees Celsius. A little chilly at first but then felt very good after a short while. A relative handful of others out walking, running or biking. Daina noted that it felt like a village with so few people around.
The city converted the embankment under the Liubarto bridge into an outdoor cinema with a screen stretched between the massive concrete pylons. The wood bench seats painted a magenta color. We were on the upper path so couldn't read the placard of what was showing this month.
Loki checked out all the smells and greeted other dogs. It is more personal in the morning. People are friendly. Passed a little arboretum in which all the local embassies planted trees with their little flags hanging from them. A nice touch as Vilnius has become a very cosmopolitan city once again. I suppose in a few years the trees will provide some shade to the benches arranged in front of them. Took a little break to let Loki catch his breath.
After so many years, a city grows on you. Hard to believe it will be 25 years this October. Most of that time has been spent in Žverynas, a stone's throw across the river from the heart of the city. The river winds its way through the suburb. Pink wild flowers in bloom on a narrow island. Not sure what kind. The trees march down the hillside from Vingio Park, giving the riverbank the look of a wilderness. Quite a few small animals around, but mostly come out in the early evening. I once had to rescue a ferret that had fallen into the basement window well. Mostly hedgehogs that like to burrow in the flower beds.
The mayor made a great effort reclaiming the path from the residences along the river but hasn't been so good at upkeep. The little maple saplings look blighted and the run off of rainwater has eaten away parts off the gravel path. The wild grass and weeds have become a haven for ticks so I try to keep Loki to the path, even if he has his prophylactic against them.
Hard to figure out what the old concrete foundations were. Probably outbuildings for the residences at one time. Houses have grown bigger and more modern over the years. I prefer the small scale wood houses that are now fewer and farther between. Very little attempt to preserve these original homes when Žverynas was a garden community. Little placards have been put up around the community, noting its 19th century history.
The Czech embassy reclaimed its area by the river walk with a lovely rose garden. The Kazakhs built an impenetrable wall with warnings not to have your dog poop on the edges of their territory. We turn back to our house at this point. There were signs of life at the old Orthodox chapel. For years, it looked abandoned. It was odd to have a mini trampoline in the small yard. I thought it might have been converted into a daycare, but turns out it is once again open for services. A way to entertain the kids, I guess.
There is the suspension bridge to Vingio Park. Quite a number of events during the summer. The old Soviet era amphitheater serving as a backdrop. Nick Cave will be here next week. I haven't been taking very many runs lately. I used to love to take the footpaths through the woods. Need to prod myself to do so again. Summer slipping away so quickly. Daina doesn't like to run. Too painful on her shins. We were never able to find the right shoes for her. She prefers walking instead.
My favorite house is an old log house with dovetailed corners, probably built in the late 19th century. The owners had stripped away the cladding to reveal the logs and painted them a burnt red color. The windows and doors all trimmed in white.
We walked down the little rise to the duck pond that has been the center of protests all summer because this is where the Russians have their Stalinist era embassy. At one point, the city had even dyed the pond red for all the deaths in Ukraine. I imagine the embassy staff has become inured to the protests as Russia has all criticism. Thousands had gathered in the park the night of the invasion back in late February.
What had been communal gardens between two rows of houses on Bebrų, or Beaver, Street is now fenced off. A sign notes that it will be a home for Alzheimer patients, but no ground has been broken yet. Just tall weeds. Too bad because it was nice passing by the little gardens. Seems to me they could have found a better place for such a facility. Some Lithuanian-American foundation underwriting the center, leasing the land from the city.
Loki was glad to get home. Panting heavily. Too tired to chase after the cat, who was waiting for us at the gate. We had taken her in two years ago. Gave her a name - Ash - but doesn't respond to it. However, she doesn't venture far beyond our yard anymore, content to lounge under the apple tree on hot summer days. She came in with us for the rest of her morning meal.
Too bad I didn't take my cellphone. No photos to add. Maybe we will do this walk again tomorrow morning.
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